Customizing for Dummies - Issue 5: Taking Photos

[MsBig]

A few people have asked me questions about how to photograph custom figures, so I'm repeating the tips I gave about 6 months ago.

If other customisers have some input, please add your methods too.

I like my action figures to look like they’re ‘in action’. I always photograph them rather than scan them because I want them to look dynamic.

I’m no expert of photography but I’ve found a formula that works for me and I always get good pictures.

My mum did her homework, when she bought a digital camera, and I just copied her (so don’t ask me the technical reasons why this is a good one)! I’ve got a Fujifilm FinePix S304.

When I take the photo:

- I switch it on to Auto

- I press the LCD button so that I can use the LCD screen

- I press the Macro button (looks like a flower) which allows me to focus closer and captures more detail

- One key factor is that I use a tripod to keep the camera steady. It’s a really worthwhile investment because I always blur the photo without it.

- The other factor is using only natural light. It is best not to be outdoors, though, just near a window. I set up the figure on my dining room table, which is next to a large French window. I have the figure at about a 20 degree angle to the light source. Avoid direct strong sunlight.

- I leave the figure still and move the camera around to take about 8 photos, at graduating angles on the same level as the figure. I then angle the camera downwards, raise its height on the tripod and take 8 more from slightly above the figure.

- I download all the photos onto my computer and then flick through them on the large monitor and pick out the best one.

When I first bought the camera, I used the setting of 1 million pixels. All the photos on my site up to October 2004 were done at that setting. Since then I have been using 3 million pixels. Now that I use 3m, I can't zoom in but have to move the camera closer.

Amusing sidebar to tell you why I now use 3m! I had given my Puppet Angel figure to Nikki Stafford, the author. She has just published the new Angel book 'Once Bitten'. She mentioned my website and wanted to print a photo of Puppet Angel. The print setter at the publishing house said the photo on my website wasn't good enough quality. If I'd been able to give her a 3 million pixel original photo, the photo would have been included. Rats!

[willowswarlok]

thanks sasha, i recently brought a finepix s304 so this is very helpful thanks
-wayne

[Jedi Doug]

I agree that photos should be taken at optimum resolution. You can use photo-editing software like Adobe Photoshop to reduce the size & dimensions of the photo so it is suitable for the internet. But keep your high-res photo just in case.

I do the same when I scan images of my figures. I scan at high resolution (300 dpi) and save that image. Then I use Photoshop to adjust the size of the photo - typically to 8" tall at 72 dpi. It's a slightly larger-than-life size photo and it really shows the detail.

Resolution for printed media is 300 dpi. Resolution for the TV or computer screen (i.e. the Internet) is 72 dpi.

[CraigO]

A tripod, you say... how fiendishly clever.

Not that the dinky little digital Kodak I just got could fit one. Drat.

[Alyrenee]

I just got a tripod too. Its nifty.

I also have these nifty lights that i use to create a key light and a fill light. I also use a mirror to bounce light back onto the figure. I still haven't gotten mine perfect yet...but they are getting better.

I would love the luxury of taking pics in high res...but I have such a shite computer at home that I cannot afford to store high res images! I am hoping to get a lap top soon or at the very least an external zip drive so i can keep my pics on a zip disc or burn to a cd.. (our current computer doesn't even have a cd burner...ahhhh).

[Emcee]

I know I'm the last person that should be weighing in on this subject, considering the first pic of my Connor figure was pretty craptacular (and I will post better ones of him! I swear, I actually know how to take a picture. I'm just waiting until I finish my Illyria figure so I don't have to set up my camera twice).

Just in my opinion, which is semi-professional (Semi-professional meaning I sell camera equipment for a living and know the theory of photography, but suck in practice) a tripod is an invaluable tool. When you're trying to get close up on a figure, you're going to get shakey hands.

If you're taking a picture that's not a "scene", like something special you set up, I recommend putting a neutral background behind your figure. You want it to be the centre of attention, and not to blend with whatever's behind it. I use a Portable Shooting Surface, because I sell the things and have tons, but you can also use a cloth. I would recommend using one that contrast with the figure. If you're figure is in dark tones, using white and if the figure is in light tones, use black. Putting the figure against a wall that's in a neutral tone also works. The point I'm trying to make is don't photograph your figure on a table with books, etc behind it.

Also, if you've got a higher end digital camera, one with a filter thread on it, PLEASE use a filter. You can get cheap filters that are pretty much just to protect the camera lens (which can get damaged, even if you put a lens cap on when not in use). But you can get other filters too, that'll improve the quality of the photo before you take it to Photoshop. There are some that fix the colours, so you get it truer-to-life. Others that increase the focus, which can be very hard to achieve close-up and invaluable when you want to get fine details.

I realize most of my tips are for people who are serious about picture-taking, but hey... I so rarely get to actually use my knowledge on photography equipment.

[MsBig]

Thanks for the extra tips!

I'm not sure why, but I've also noticed that my photos are much better, when I take them inside my stone building set.

It drives me mad, when I'm entering a competition, because I have to use a different background. The photo always comes out too shiny and over-exposed looking.

I think it's because the building is curved so it gives some protection from glare and also because the surface is very non-reflective.

[Emcee]

I'm a big fan of the background you use on your photos. It's pretty neutral and it doesn't overpower the figures. The cracking wall also has a Buffy-ish feel to it. It's a very good choice.

The important thing, I think, is to be conscious of what you're photographing your figure against. I've seen some customs pictured with stuff like DVDs in the background, or customizing material around, and that's just a little sloppy and pulling focus away from the figure.

[DanMan]

A problem I see that many people here seem to not know about is that many cameras have trouble shooting in focus when the subject is less than 5 or 6 feet away. So unless you know your camera can handle it ok, I recommend standing back. Many lenses just aren't made to focus on stuff that close to the camera.

It's better to be further back and then zoom in (optical zoom only, if your camera does digital zoom, don't go that far) on cameras such as this. When you're further back and zoomed in you're much more likely to get blurriness from camera shake, so use a tripod or set it on a table for pictures like this.

If you have manual focus and can actually tell when it looks in focus(I know many people have trouble with that), use that. Auto-focus can often focus on the wrong part of the picture, like the background instead of the subject. In low-light situations auto-focus also has a lot of trouble.